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It is early evening and dark when we reach Radisani, a mostly Macedonian suburb on the outskirts of Skopje. I look at Femi's other children who are watching all this.We find the house hidden behind a large brick wall, knock on a heavy metal gate and after several locks and bolts are undone, the gate opens and we enter a yard. They are putting on a brave face but it is clear that they are afraid.

"We sing as a protest," she tells me, "because all of our other forms of protest were met with violent repression and threats of job loss, loss of positions at the university and things like that." We pause by a 12-foot high gilded statue of the Greek god, Prometheus.

It sits awkwardly in front of an imitation Brandenburg Gate complete with golden horses. "I would say that it's ugly, that it's insulting, it's invasive and it's repressive.

Whoever wins in the Macedonian political block, whoever wins in the Albanian political block; they have the legitimacy of the two largest communities and they bear responsibility to govern together to try and find a common language." Later I talk to Borian Jovanovski, a TV journalist whose station was closed down by the government as part of a crackdown on independent media.

He begs to differ: "Talking about this project Skopje 2014, yes it's damaging to inter-ethnic relations, it's not reflecting the multi-cultural society that Macedonia is.

Against a background of increasing tension caused by a controversial inter-community murder case, the government's opponents have also weighed in with allegations that conservative Prime Minister Nikola Gruevski has been behind a massive state surveillance and wire-tapping programme, aimed at suppressing dissent and clinging onto power.

So how did this very Balkan crisis begin and where will it lead?Next morning over breakfast I asked the waiter about the coup. I say contemporary but the style is anything but: here pseudo-classical figures sit (mostly on horseback) cheek by jowl with social-realist effigies that could have been hewn in Stalinist Russia.The centre piece is a 100-foot high statue of Alexander the Great, which sits atop a plinth surrounded by carved warriors.I continue to have the same stance even today." Skopje 2014 ...is not reflecting the multi-cultural society that Macedonia is ....It is all part of a project, called Skopje 2014, which is both the brainchild of the prime minister and the focus of a great deal of unhappiness.

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